These are my Vikings, opposition for the Saxon Army from my last post. There are a few less of these guys but they have a lot more of the heavily armed and armored Huscarls to oppose the masses of Saxon Fyrd.
Army as a whole:
Leader with his 4 unit warband:
Leader with 6 unit warband:
Leader with his 4 unit warband (Based on Guthrum from the Saxon Tales novels).
Huscarls to the front and 9 units of unarmored Vikings to the rear.
3 units of mounted Vikings:
Guthrum in front of his men (The Blackshields)
Another leader in front of his men:
Yet aother Viking hero and his boatcrews.
Older Viking leader on horse.
Leader stands for attached and detached.
All together this gives me a little over 800 dark ages figures. My main gaming partner, Trent, can field about this same amount of Vikings and Saxons and he also has a bunch of Welsh/Irish, which allows us to do some very large dark age fights.
Next up for me is working on more ships, Viking/Saxon baggage stands, and some archer stands.
I've also got a bunch of painted Rus that need to be rebased to offer another opponent.
Tuesday, January 21, 2014
Saturday, January 18, 2014
15mm Saxon Army
Here are some pictures of the 15mm Saxon army that I have been working on for a while now. Some of these were purchased already painted and some were painted by me but almost all of them have had some touch up work done to them (Rebased, Inked, Shields re-painted).
First is an overall shot of my Saxons
You can see the household troops in the front with the Thegns and Fyrd to the rear.
The round bases represent the leaders and have been picked out with LBMS flags.
Here is a closer picture of some of the household troops.
The front three untis each with 16 figures represent the well armed and armoured household troops. The stands behind these are the Thegns (12 per unit) they represent the less armored and less well trained warriors. Better than the fyrd but armed with weapon, shield, and helmet.
Below are my 10 units of Thegns.
Here are the Fyrd (Mostly peasants with a variety of implements as weapons) with no armor. Their leader is a Priest who is proudly standing in front of his charges. They are 12 figures per unit like the Thegns.
Next is the Bishop with his personal guard of household troops.
And finally here are some closeups of my command stands. See the previous blog post for an explanation of why I have matching rectangular and round bases.
That's all of my Saxons for now. Although I am still painting more.
Next up the Vikings!
First is an overall shot of my Saxons
You can see the household troops in the front with the Thegns and Fyrd to the rear.
The round bases represent the leaders and have been picked out with LBMS flags.
Here is a closer picture of some of the household troops.
The front three untis each with 16 figures represent the well armed and armoured household troops. The stands behind these are the Thegns (12 per unit) they represent the less armored and less well trained warriors. Better than the fyrd but armed with weapon, shield, and helmet.
Below are my 10 units of Thegns.
Here are the Fyrd (Mostly peasants with a variety of implements as weapons) with no armor. Their leader is a Priest who is proudly standing in front of his charges. They are 12 figures per unit like the Thegns.
Next is the Bishop with his personal guard of household troops.
And finally here are some closeups of my command stands. See the previous blog post for an explanation of why I have matching rectangular and round bases.
That's all of my Saxons for now. Although I am still painting more.
Next up the Vikings!
Friday, January 17, 2014
15mm Basing Method (Vikings and Normans)
I thought I would post about the way that I base my ancients, including my Vikings and Saxons. I generally base all infantry on 40mm x 20mm bases with either 2,3, or 4 figures per base. This way I can use them for any rules that use WRG basing standards. However, I also like to use other rules like Impetus and Hail Ceasar which benefit from larger bases. To allow for this I make magnetic movement stands that can fit 4 of my metal stands. This gives me a base that is 80mm x 40mm for infantry.
The magnetic bases are made using a layer of sheet magnet, a layer of plastic card, and then a layer of rubber steel sheet. I buy these from a magnet wholesaler in large rolls. If you use the 60ml sheeting you can pick up the whole base by a figure and it will support the entire weight of the combined base. I put the magnetic steel on the bottom so I can store them with figures attached in my already magnetized boxes.
Here you can see a magnetic base with 4 of the metal bases on it.
With the bases spreadout:
I then base my leaders on 2 separate but matching stands per leader. 1st a 40mm x 20mm rectangular metal base and the 2nd pn a round washer. I use LBMS flags to signify the leaders as well as painting the 2 stands to match.
Here is a unit of Huscarls with their detached leader.
When the leader wants to attach to a unit I then remove one of the 4 stands and replace it with the 40mm x 20mm stand. as you see below. With this method I can also show a leader attached and leading from the front, or attached and driving troops forward from the rear. Its a little more work to do the extra stands but I like the look.
I'll be posting some pics of all of the Vikings and Saxons I have done in the next few days.
The magnetic bases are made using a layer of sheet magnet, a layer of plastic card, and then a layer of rubber steel sheet. I buy these from a magnet wholesaler in large rolls. If you use the 60ml sheeting you can pick up the whole base by a figure and it will support the entire weight of the combined base. I put the magnetic steel on the bottom so I can store them with figures attached in my already magnetized boxes.
Here you can see a magnetic base with 4 of the metal bases on it.
With the bases spreadout:
I then base my leaders on 2 separate but matching stands per leader. 1st a 40mm x 20mm rectangular metal base and the 2nd pn a round washer. I use LBMS flags to signify the leaders as well as painting the 2 stands to match.
Here is a unit of Huscarls with their detached leader.
When the leader wants to attach to a unit I then remove one of the 4 stands and replace it with the 40mm x 20mm stand. as you see below. With this method I can also show a leader attached and leading from the front, or attached and driving troops forward from the rear. Its a little more work to do the extra stands but I like the look.
I'll be posting some pics of all of the Vikings and Saxons I have done in the next few days.
Tuesday, January 14, 2014
15mm Viking Ships
Over the past few months I have been working on building some 15mm Viking ships and casting them with the help of one of my good friends. I've got three different ship hulls cast and have finally completed a few of the ships. I thought I would post a few pictures of them to my blog.
The reason I decided to build these ships was that all of the other "15mm" Viking ships I could find were specifically under-scaled. Meant to be used as baggage camps. I wanted ships that could actually fit my 15mm Vikings which were based on 40mm x 20mm bases. and would allow me to fight see battles. I did some research on the lengths of actual Viking ships and all of my ships are within the appropriate length of actual recovered Viking vessels. They are a little oversized in their width due to my requirement to fit my bases.
Also I should note that I did not sculpt the obligatory shields onto the side of the ships since in my case the figures themselves are holding their shields. It is also my understanding that the shields were only hung on the ship sides on formal occasions (Leaving/returning from home port) or possibly when braving bowfire. Otherwise they would either be stored away to preserve them from the corrosive properties of salt water and spray, perhaps in seal skin, or in use in the event of shipboard fighting.
Here is a picture of the 4 ships I currently have completed. (Note that I only have 1 sail finished at this time). The sail is attached with a magnet so it can easily be removed. The front ship is my large longship that holds 9 stands, the ship with the sail is the medium longship that holds 7 stands and the other 2 ships are small longships that hold 5 stands.
I built the masters for these using Balsa wood and textured plasti-card for the sides. With the help of one of my gaming friends (Thanks Trent!) we got molds of the hulls made. This next picture shows cast samples of the small and medium hulls fresh out of the mold.
I then finished the ships by sculpting tail pieces out of greenstuff and adding heads from other minitures (Note the dragon heads are from the plastic toy dragons that come in a tube). I then added masts and some simple rigging to finish the basic models.
The sail was printed on thin card with a computer printer (By yet another friend - Thanks Conrad!) and then wrapped around another dowel, glued together, and shaped. The head of a brad and a rare earth magnet allow the sail to me removed or added as needed. Our next step will be to make and cast some oar pieces that can be set next to the models to indicate they are being rowed.
Here are some additional pictures
The three sizes of longship I have currently made
Large - 9 stands - at the rear
Medium - 7 stands - in the middle
Small - 5 stands - at the front
Figure head closeup ( Plastic Toob dragon head)
Closeup of some Vikings and the ships side.
Relative sizes of known viking ships & my models:
My Large Model = 37 Meters (15mm scale)
Skuldelev 6 Ship = 36 Meters
Skuldelev 2 Ship = 30 Meters
My Med Model = 31.5 Meters (15mm Scale)
Sutton Hoo Ship = 27 Meters
My Small Model = 26.5 Meters (15mm Scale)
Gokstad Ship = 23 Meters
Tune Ship = 22 Meters
Oseberg Ship = 21 Meters
My unfinished very small Model = 21 Meters
Skuldelev 5 Ship = 17 Meters
Skuldelev 1 Ship = 16 Meters (Knarr)
Skuldelev 3 Ship = 14 Meters (Knarr)
I've also got the hull for a small knarr or fishing vessel already cast and am working on a large knarr and one more longship slightly shorter and narrower than the small one above. It will hold 4 stands.
Anyway I'll be posting some more pics of my Viking project as I get things done. Thanks for taking a look.
Up next hordes of Vikings and Saxons!
The reason I decided to build these ships was that all of the other "15mm" Viking ships I could find were specifically under-scaled. Meant to be used as baggage camps. I wanted ships that could actually fit my 15mm Vikings which were based on 40mm x 20mm bases. and would allow me to fight see battles. I did some research on the lengths of actual Viking ships and all of my ships are within the appropriate length of actual recovered Viking vessels. They are a little oversized in their width due to my requirement to fit my bases.
Also I should note that I did not sculpt the obligatory shields onto the side of the ships since in my case the figures themselves are holding their shields. It is also my understanding that the shields were only hung on the ship sides on formal occasions (Leaving/returning from home port) or possibly when braving bowfire. Otherwise they would either be stored away to preserve them from the corrosive properties of salt water and spray, perhaps in seal skin, or in use in the event of shipboard fighting.
Here is a picture of the 4 ships I currently have completed. (Note that I only have 1 sail finished at this time). The sail is attached with a magnet so it can easily be removed. The front ship is my large longship that holds 9 stands, the ship with the sail is the medium longship that holds 7 stands and the other 2 ships are small longships that hold 5 stands.
I built the masters for these using Balsa wood and textured plasti-card for the sides. With the help of one of my gaming friends (Thanks Trent!) we got molds of the hulls made. This next picture shows cast samples of the small and medium hulls fresh out of the mold.
I then finished the ships by sculpting tail pieces out of greenstuff and adding heads from other minitures (Note the dragon heads are from the plastic toy dragons that come in a tube). I then added masts and some simple rigging to finish the basic models.
The sail was printed on thin card with a computer printer (By yet another friend - Thanks Conrad!) and then wrapped around another dowel, glued together, and shaped. The head of a brad and a rare earth magnet allow the sail to me removed or added as needed. Our next step will be to make and cast some oar pieces that can be set next to the models to indicate they are being rowed.
Here are some additional pictures
The three sizes of longship I have currently made
Large - 9 stands - at the rear
Medium - 7 stands - in the middle
Small - 5 stands - at the front
Figure head closeup ( Plastic Toob dragon head)
Closeup of some Vikings and the ships side.
Relative sizes of known viking ships & my models:
My Large Model = 37 Meters (15mm scale)
Skuldelev 6 Ship = 36 Meters
Skuldelev 2 Ship = 30 Meters
My Med Model = 31.5 Meters (15mm Scale)
Sutton Hoo Ship = 27 Meters
My Small Model = 26.5 Meters (15mm Scale)
Gokstad Ship = 23 Meters
Tune Ship = 22 Meters
Oseberg Ship = 21 Meters
My unfinished very small Model = 21 Meters
Skuldelev 5 Ship = 17 Meters
Skuldelev 1 Ship = 16 Meters (Knarr)
Skuldelev 3 Ship = 14 Meters (Knarr)
I've also got the hull for a small knarr or fishing vessel already cast and am working on a large knarr and one more longship slightly shorter and narrower than the small one above. It will hold 4 stands.
Anyway I'll be posting some more pics of my Viking project as I get things done. Thanks for taking a look.
Up next hordes of Vikings and Saxons!
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